appropriate left: no longer your ordinary steakhouse fare—watermelon salad, pumpkin seed pesto, polenta croutons, fowl dermis French dressing. suitable right: Bi lly the child is a pasta carbonara with a silky sous vide egg sauce and hundreds clean herbs. Left: Bar food gets extended with buffalo fried quail, celery root slaw, Jackson sizzling sauce. core: The Bone Marrow and Cheddar Fondue is likely one of the Cowboy Steakhouse's ought to-order starters. appropriate: The zabuton steak is a very delicate cut named after its form, like that of a flat japanese sitting cushion. (picture, suitable left, accurate right and backside left: annie fenn, md; bottom middle and bottom left: cowboy steakhouse)
JACKSON gap, WY – earlier than I tell you concerning the Million greenback Cowboy Steakhouse, its new owner and revamped menu, I should still likely point out that steakhouse fare is not my cup of tea. Overpriced steaks, unimaginative dishes, gloopy overdressed salads, and throngs of visitors seem to be the norm, principally in Jackson. In normal, I find the entire steakhouse journey to be disappointing and the food ho-hum.
but once I realized that Chef Paulie O'Connor had purchased the Million dollar Cowboy Steakhouse, I had to test it out. no longer only did O'Connor take over the company factor of issues at the steakhouse, he's also on the company conclusion of a spatula—within the kitchen on a regular basis. This promised to be a very good issue.
O'Connor, or Paulie as everyone calls him, has been a liked native chef on the grounds that his days cooking on the historical Yellowstone storage in Jackson under homeowners Cinzia and David Gilbert. For nearly six years, Paulie cranked out dozens of now legendary Italian dishes to a loyal troupe of locals, myself amongst them. I celebrated all of my birthdays there, watched my youngsters grow up from one all-you-can-consume Sunday pizza evening to the subsequent, and have fond reminiscences of buying my nephew Alex his first felony drink at OYG's bar (Campari, of path).
When OYG closed in 2007, Paulie took over as govt chef at Il Villaggio Osteria. once again, we locals had been handled to Paulie's mind-blowing Italian meals—handmade pastas, thin crust pizzas, imaginative antipasti, perfectly finished seafood and steaks, and homey Sicilian desserts. right through his time at Osteria, Paulie turned into nominated for a James Beard Award as a semifinalist for gold standard Chef Northwest.
I figured if any person might make me fall in love with a steakhouse, it was Chef Paulie. And so I checked my preconceived notions on the boardwalk, entered the Cowboy Bar amongst the throngs of men on guycation and dolled up women in Western attire, headed down the stairs to the basement and straight during the saloon doorways of the Million greenback Cowboy Steakhouse.
The restaurant became brighter than I recalled, yet nevertheless had that old Jackson think of knobby pine and cowboy print upholstery. the primary pleasant faces to greet me have been wine professional Jean-Paul Glaume and his wife Tilly, key body of workers members from Paulie's OYG days. What a great sign that Paulie had gotten the OYG family back collectively in any case these years.
Paulie's big personality is obvious on the Cowboy menu. It's snicker-out-loud funny and has so many delicious probabilities it took my community of 10 ladies quite a long time to order. We wanted to are attempting every thing, from the Bone Marrow and Cheddar Fondue, served with wild mushrooms, buffalo bratwurst and crostini; to the Charred baby Iceberg Salad; to the Billy the kid, a bucatini carbonara with lamb pancetta, spring peas, black truffle, and a smooth egg on right. there were vegetable side dishes that we loved, just like the creamed spinach and the whiskey glazed carrots.
And there were steaks: wild game cuts, Allen Brothers best red meat cuts, and Snake River Farms Wagyu cuts. one of the steaks are large, just like the 18-ounce bone-in rib eye, large sufficient to share with four or 5 pals. "we're truly pushing the boundaries by way of promoting bigger steaks," Paulie talked about.
My neighborhood chose to share two smaller steaks, the 10-ounce pork zabuton, and the ten-ounce skirt steak. each had been deeply flavorful and cooked to perfection. given that that dinner returned in December just after the Cowboy Steakhouse reopened, I've been back with huge companies, small companies, with my kids, on date evening with my husband, and to the bar for a late evening indulgence of foie gras and a glass from Glaume's marvelous record of wines.
On each consult with it strikes me that the Cowboy Steakhouse staff simply loves working with Paulie. in reality, mentoring young cooks is some thing he takes very critically.
"It's important the group of workers looks like they're truly part of it," Paulie mentioned. "We do a lot of tastings together to powwow over the dishes. A dish evolves when body of workers contributors get involved." by the way: Diners can end their meal with respectable karma via ordering a Bucket of Beers for the kitchen group of workers off the dessert menu.
Chef Paulie is determined to make the new Million dollar Cowboy Steakhouse a spot where locals can think at home. For all his old OYG fans, he hopes to have an OYG evening as soon as per week to deliver again a few of these classic Italian dishes. He's renamed the bar The Den with its own properly priced dishes just like the Buffalo Fried Quail ($13), the sweet Potato Falafel Burger ($17), and the Wagyu Steak Frites with Asian Chimichurri ($17). soon he'll be rolling out whiskey flights (three half-ounce shots paired with a small plate, like a foie gras scotch bonbon) and a Knife club (buy a new West KnifeWorks culinary knife, get a discount on food or alcohol.)
again in the days when Paulie become working at Il Villaggio Osteria and overseeing a number of eating places for nice eating Restaurant community, he admits he had a fine place and an outstanding boss in Gavin exceptional. however a voice in his head stored telling him: "Don't settle, don't be afraid to possibility every little thing and notice what happens." Now, as he juggles his numerous agencies—now not simply the newly fantastic Million dollar Cowboy Steakhouse, however his OYG restaurant in Alpine, OYG catering, and his new challenge at Caldera residence in Teton Village coming this wintry weather, I have to wonder if he'll deserve to be cloned to keep it all going.
"I've been working for other americans my entire life," Paulie said, "but it surely's extra pleasurable to be on my own. each and every determination I make has a ripple impact on how my existence goes." And he continually offers credit score to his staff for all of the high-quality work they do.
it will take many more visits for me to try everything on Paulie's extensive menu at the Cowboy. next time I'll doubtless order the Joe Pesce for historical times sake—a throwback to the historic OYG menu, Paulie prepares Corvina sea bass piccata trend with a buckwheat salad, brocciolini and a Meyer Lemon French dressing. I guess you might say Paulie has made a steakhouse fan out of me in spite of everything. PJH
The Million dollar Cowboy Steakhouse is open every day from 5:30 pm. OYG in Alpine is open Thursday via Sunday and just begun offering Sunday brunch. OYG catering is purchasable for private dining, company events, weddings and parties.
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