where to consume (and Drink) in Tokyo right now - Condé Nast traveler

we've sorted these stops for you through specialty—whether it's the spiciest ramen, the iciest espresso, or (we're calling it) Tokyo's next extraordinary sushi restaurant.

SUSHI: SushiYa

The Scene: Hidden in an alley off a further alley in Ginza, (literally "Sushi shop") seems like your standard sushi den—a boxy room with an L-formed counter at the center. however it's run by means of Takao Ishiyama, a six-foot-tall, 32-year-old genius who has joined the ranks of Tokyo sushi artisans in exactly four years. And the fish—respectable God, the fish! Otoro tuna as fatty and luscious as a slab of pancetta. Bonito smoked over straw. Hokkaido ikura, perked up with yuzu zest. at this time, this is the premier on the town.

The strategy: Plan forward—the eight seats booklet up a month in improve. Takao-san's multi-route omakase menu takes about an hour.

RAMEN: Kikanbo

The Scene: You'll know René Redzepi's go-to spicy ramen joint simply north of Kanda Station with the aid of the road out entrance, a dozen hipsters deep. internal, the kitchen is obscured by way of steam rising from a cauldron of scalding broth and tumbling over-the-counter, the place 15 lucky souls sit down dabbing their brows and slurping oni ("demon") ramen: a fiery miso broth spiked with chilies and Sichuan peppercorns, most desirable knocked returned with a cold Asahi beer.

The approach: Come mid-afternoon, between top times, to lower the wait. the line can take 30 to forty minutes, the meal lasts probably 10. (You region your order using a merchandising-computer-like contraption that spits out a ramen ticket.)

TEMPURA: Ippoh

The Scene: Masaru Seki of Ippoh comes from an esteemed line of master tempura cooks; this dependent restaurant in Ginza (a quiet, multi-room area above a Barneys manhattan) is a department of the 166-yr-historic Osaka normal where his father and grandfather worked. You in no way dreamed tempura may be this light, or this tasty.

The strategy: booklet an early seat, earlier than seven on a weeknight, and you have a shot at being the simplest guest at Masaru-san's counter. (He speaks ample English to walk you through the constituents.)

© BRIAN FINKE

YAKITORI: Toritama

The Scene: Hidden beneath a wine bar, this rowdy yakitori apartment makes essentially the most of every a part of the fowl: over 30 preparations in all, from miso-marinated thighs to creamy thymus glands (truly, they're miraculous). It's a circus at all hours, and you and 21 others can watch it from the L-fashioned counter because the resident fire-jugglers toss skewers across the grill, unfazed with the aid of the flames.

The method: The expat-heavy surrounding Kagurazaka district is known as "Little Paris." store its boutiques in the afternoon, then hit Toritama in the early evening to nab a seat.

contemporary japanese: Jimbocho Den

The Scene: Tokyo's most blissful high-end restaurant is overseen by means of 38-year-historic Zaiyu Hasegawa (whom Brazilian celebrity chef Alex Atala hails as Japan's premiere young skill). What units Zaiyu-san aside is his devotion to laughter—a rarity in Michelin-starred kitchens. To sit at Jimbocho Den's eight-seat counter is to dive headlong into an eight- to ten-route improv comedy demonstrate, because the chef and his crew trot out shock after kooky surprise. There's the grinning bobblehead of Zaiyu-san on the counter, the carrots carved into smiley faces hiding within the salad veggies, and the goofy homage to KFC (delivered in a box marked "Den-tucky Fried bird"): inside, what feels like a traditional fried bird wing is filled with a mix of sticky rice, potatoes, or beans and with seasonal parts comparable to mushrooms and ume plum. amusing, yes, and also seriously scrumptious.

The strategy: Make an evening of it—dinner unfolds over a couple of hours. bear in mind that on the end of 2016, Den will circulation from fringe-y Jimbocho to upscale Gaienmae. the new digs will retain the chef's counter setup and the deepest eating rooms. As ever, you'll deserve to name up to two months in strengthen to reserve.

IZAKAYA: Kotaro

The Scene: likelihood is you'll be the best non-native right here. Tokyo's true chefs and the beau monde of Shibuya come to Kotaro Hayashi's ten-seat counter for sophisticated seasonal renditions of hearty japanese pub food, like tofu topped with sautéed leeks and fried child sardines. Kotaro-san is smitten by sake; working with simply 9 small-scale jizake breweries, he's in a position to score rare seasonal allocations.

The strategy: Put your self in Kotaro-san's arms. He and his personnel talk minimal English, but he'll fortunately e-book you during the meal. (A translation app helps.)

image by means of Brian Finke

A Kayama special (Tanqueray No. Ten and wooded area water) at Bar BenFiddich

GRILL: Jomon Roppongi

The Scene: The Roppongi outpost of this standard yakitori and grill residence is filled with younger jap couples and organizations who're there to drink challenging. The upside? The food is sensational, and the birthday celebration crowd mostly adjourns to tables within the back. more advantageous to take a seat at the bar opposite the grill, from which come treats like molten pork short ribs and flame-kissed persimmons wrapped in Francis Bacon.

The approach: Like many spots in Roppongi, Jomon is open late. It's ultimate for a jet-lagged nighttime meal, pre- or put up-bar crawl. Warning: Your outfits will emerge as smelling smoky.

COCKTAILS: Bar Ben Fiddich

The Scene: There are thousands—no exaggeration—of obsessively curated cocktail bars right here, however none rather like this tiny boîte high above glitzy Shinjuku. once your eyes regulate to the candlelight, you'll see that this is no pretentious speakeasy however a convivial bar which happens to serve exceptional cocktails. Proprietor Hiroyasu Kayama, in an ivory dinner jacket, can suggest a rare japanese whiskey (are attempting anything else with the aid of Ichiro), but make sure you additionally order a Negroni simply to watch him craft his own "Campari" using a mortar and pestle, mysterious tinctures, and a dozen botanicals.

The method: Like most of Tokyo's true cocktail dens, this one is complex to locate, hidden on the ninth ground of an office tower (thank God for Google Maps). You don't need to reserve, however have your resort name ahead.

tune: Bar Martha

The Scene: Now multiplying across Tokyo, the "list bar" is one of Japan's wonderful twenty-first-century tendencies, albeit a really closing-century concept. just like the basement rec room of your mildly alcoholic tune-nerd pal, listing bars are all about vintage vinyl, stiff drinks, and the appreciation thereof. You're right here to shut up, pay attention, and drink. This based bar in Ebisu is among the greater polished options, with wonderful cocktails and an enormous collection of soul, funk, and jazz, performed through a tube amp and tweed-lined audio system, each and every the dimension of a fridge.

The approach: They're useless occupied with forbidding loud dialog, and there's a strict no-photos coverage; you'll have to be sneaky about Instagram­ming that handblown coupe. (Or head to Kaminarimon and purchase one at Sokichi, each Tokyo bartender's go-to store.)

coffee: Café de l'Ambre

The Scene: Any variety of upstarts lay declare to Tokyo's artisanal-coffee throne, but this smoke-stained, sepia-toned relic in Ginza, centered in 1948, trumps them all. proprietor Ichiro Sekiguchi, who grew to become 102 this 12 months, turned into pour-over earlier than it was cool, and every cup is meticulously organized. L'Ambre even offers aged beans—a 1954 Colombian, a '95 Guatemalan. however the actual draw is the iced espresso, chilled in a cocktail shaker and served in a coupe.

The method: There are just a few wobbly tables, but you'll want to sit on the counter to monitor your barista at work.